Hoods in the woods ,,wait, no, Woods in tha Hood !!!

Its been over a year since my last post ,, i guess my flame done went out fer the interweb ... but jus the other day i watched & captured something that rery got my attention ... yet again in the most epic of conditions Daniel Woods gone & climbs up some sick ass roof in RMNP,, down there on the river !!! its absolutely amazing, Five big powerful moves gets you out the roof , with the foot movements seemingly being the cruxes ... AMAZING JOB D-DUB !!!

the pass word is whoneedshits to unlock the video and that reads who needs hits , right ?

any way this was jus my left hand iphone red footage, look for the right hand good footage to come .. its out there somewhere ...

the /// G A M E /// Second Ascent !!!

Well i was up in the canyon the other day & after letting us all down in the comp Daniel Woods shows up. He explained to me that he felt sorry for everyone out there in compland & that he threw the comp to make money,,, by betting against himself ... he went on to say that he was in fact the true winner , in his own heart ! He said he was from Longmont & if any mo fucka out there wanted to get stuck , then come up !!! of course I said YEAH RIGHT !!! & then in fact he started shit with me & Dave Graham i think he hit Dave Graham in the face with his crash pad & then Big Bad Jimmy Webb crept up from the shadows & tried to pull some moves & shit ... I chilled everyone out & we all had a heart to heart with each other , Jimmy then told me that Daniel freaked out & did Midnight Express again ... what a beast I thought & then & then he was looking at the GAME ... kinda foaming at the mouth & shit ... well I whipped out my new 8 milli & shot that fool down ... brat brat

Untitled from chad greedy on Vimeo.

well I think Daniel put things into perspective a lil bit , & if you worship the //// H A W K //// things can be good for you ! watch this amazing web site for Jimmy Webb sending Fantasia , next, second ascents all day everyday !!!

ENTER THE WOLVO

so so , this is the visual stimulus for my last blog post ! It is called ENTER THE WOLVO, inspired by the latest movie from Gasper Noe, ENTER THE VOID ... My new all time fave !!! Also this is the first collaboration video from the ISLAND , with Dave, Jon & I doing what we do the worst & thats working ... but it worked out and here it is strait to your face !!! here first on HARDCLIMBS ...

enjoi !

ENTER THE WOLVO from chad greedy on Vimeo.

also I dedicate this video to James Webb who has touched us all in some way !

GROSS...

'EMERGENCY POST'

Well well , the closure heard around the world , WOLVERINE LAND has come to an end (unless your very motivated, & some are !) I thought I would give some kind of explanation to this summer & tell a lil of the happenings up there in this new amazing area ...

It started as most things do , out of boredom ... I returned from a winter in Spain along with Dave Graham & Jon Cardwell ... I think we were all looking for the next best thing ... spirits were low due to the lack of good conditions in Spain ... Dave had developed a finger injury as well Jon had a hurt paw ... I felt OK & was looking forward to a long summer in the park (RMNP). Dave was not ... I couldn't blame him, he had done most of the problems years ago and that same old day to day was not motivating him ... Jamie suggested he look at Google earth and see what he could find ... Jamie pointed him in the direction of Mt. Evans ... Dave on a whim went up by his lonesome ... Upon his return the energy was overwhelming ... It seemed as if he had seen the lord himself !

Chul Lee on the land shark project ...

We were all very syked on this ! The whole krew went up ... There was an electricity to the whole experience ... we didn't even know how to handle this ... It was so vast and new and no one new about it, so we thought ...

We returned to our house , were we all live in harmony within our Boulder community ... We started to look at the all mighty INTERNET for any information about this new blessing !!! and we actually found out quite a bit ... WE , in fact were not the first people to climb on the boulders of Lincoln Lake ... In fact most of the old schoolers from around town (the Great city Boulder) had been there ! In fact my own boss , Chul Lee had been there and put great efforts in ! Will LeMarie , my good friend John Duun , Strong Man Bart, Tait Rees , Eric DeCairea even mother to 3 , Jen LeMaire had been there , and a lot ! WTF ? Boulders STRONGEST Carl Traverse had even been there ... just a few years prior ... wow , we were out of the loop ! Never the less we had seen the light and started going up to Lincoln Lake everyday .

We started to meet people up there , the rangers , the nice people in the tool box , a Nat Geo. photographer with a pet mountain lion named Ruby, the gas station dwellers of Idaho Springs... We discovered its better to wait to get back to Boulder to eat ... Clear Creek Canyon can save you 15 minutes on a good day ! there are usually 4 to 5 Cops to see on your way there or back (we know where they hide) ... all this was the day to day experience just getting up to the boulders ... then you reach the boulders &

a bad storm we were in @ WOLVERINE LAND..

Well shit you are in paradise littered with the thickest egos you have ever felt ... Everyone had an opinion about everything , everything sucked or was easy for them or Dave Graham & his lack of vision again or Chad Greedy chippin up another one ... we got our pads stolen again (becoming an annual thing for us) ... People made videos of their exploits ... people talked a lot of shit ... We rolled with the punches ... We stood our ground ... I couldn't ever figure out why this was the case ... It seemed so perfect, this new area ,,, and it seemed BIG too ! room for all ?

It was a classic case of diversity ... all I had to say was fuck that ! Obsession had set in for for me & i could tell for others as well ! with all these new & hard boulders being established it was time to,,, well ,,, CLIMB !!! And we did ... Day after day we would clean blocs, leveled landings, and climbed on amazing virgin boulders ! The first hard one was The Great War for Civilization , at hard V13 , the next was the roof ! now Evil Backwards , V14 ... then the frenzy started ! Mostly Dave and myself would clean shit up and then we would bring Daniel there and he would kill them off , then Dave & Jon would follow suit ... The Death Trout, V14 went up , the Exfoliator was established ... Dave was looking and getting syked on Let the Right One In , V14 . Daniel established it and then Dave made the second ascent ... then I went down to have a look at a nice belly style roof down from Unshackled ... I cleaned it up and showed it to Dave and the Boys and with in a few days Daniel & Dave made an ascent ! The first V15 boulder in the ditch ! A power 8c ! so sick ! all of 5 moves this one really stands out to me ... Both Daniel & Dave did this problem a lot quicker than I had expected & both were looking in the utmost shape !

Things were good. Everyone kind of stepped up to the plate and started to develop the place in a frenzy and people were getting in the shape of their lives ... Lincoln Lake is just under 12,000 feet and you hike down to it about 1000 feet , which makes it the MOST EXTREME road side bouldering in the world ??? doing this 4 days a week for many really upped the fitness , the Girls asses were looking great ! Jon Cardwell in the midst of it all went down south to Brazil , only to do everything in their country ... Daniel did a V14 a day in the beginning ... People were having amazing days ! Jon got back from Brazil and did 3 V13s in a day ? Dave put up a V14 , Vanilla Sky & a V13 , Tattooed Tear Drops his last day , in less than perfect conditions ... Nalle Hukkatatival came to town to try and clean up what he could before the road closure, and did 2 V14s and 4 v13s , on the quick as well ... People were doing what they could and doing things pretty fast , I think in the end people were sensing the road closure and it came up pretty quick , and we never really felt a consistency with the conditions (always a lil warm) . most of the problems were put up in less than perfect conditions ! and it left room for error ... also problems changed, holds got better as more people climbed on them , some holds broke for the worse and made things harder ... all in all it was like watching the evolution of a decade over a summer ... even on the last of days a trail was prevalent ... it was THE SUMMER OF FUN !

In the beginning the storms were fierce, we sat under a boulder for hours while it did everything that weather can do... the lightning was the scariest I've seen, striking the ridges above, scaring the girls ... the stories of the wild life started to trickle in too. First it was the sightings of the mountain lion & her cubs , then the stories of the WOLVERINE... It just so happens that scientist and the DNR got together and released these lil critters into the wild forests of Mt. Evans in the early 90's ... since then they have all dispersed, until 2009 when a hiker saw one ! AMAZING ! Real life wolverines in the in the very place we like to tear shit up ! I just could not believe this until I my self & Jon Cardwell saw one from a distance ... true story ! I actually can't believe no one was injured over the summer with the chaotic terrain and wild beasts among us, all the while trying to climb at your limit ...
I think this summer will mark the first renaissance after the lull of the bouldering explosion or at least for alpine bouldering. People have always been doing things but this year a lot of strong people did things together.. It was great to see all the different krews doing what they they do, and that's climb.. Especially a lot of the girls out there ! Flan & Stephanie Marvez (which Cookie LIKES! ) made it personal by down rating all of my problems, but did them all as well ! NICE ONE LADYS ! It was great to just have another summer in ColoRADo with the lads... Dave Graham, Gomez, Jon Cardwell, Jamie Emerson, Nalle, Sam, Cook Dawg, Stix & those fools, even Gabor & Andre ,also Caroline Treadway, JUSTIN JAEGER, Brian Capps, Paul Dusatko, Ian Dory, Flan & Steph, even Jimmy Webb in the beginning ,,, and lets not forget MVP Angie Pyane!, were all just a few faces I saw on the regular, as well consider our humble lil motley krew ! thanx to all of you for making it the best summer a lonely kid from gutter could ever ever have in the world !!!!!!! OMG OMG OMG !!!!

well now that's its all over there is still a lot of work to do right here in the backyard or rather the back porch, with the GAME looming over Boulder like a gargoyle, it's hard to think people are done working ... the Island has finally united some what right here in Boulder ColoRADo. Our creed is to reinvent the climbing media , unfortunately the krew now has i phones (except Nalle, he has the smaller more girly i pod touch) and applications have possessed us and left most of us immobile. If the Lord will allow, we will be back in no time to bring to you the best god damn rock climbing videos the world has to offer... Check out iclimb.com to download the Island Vol. ZERO, a collage of climbing footage from the best areas in the world except South Afrika & now WOLVERINE LAND !

and keep lookin for that damn ISLAND WEB SITE COMING VERY SOON !!!!

here is the same ol shit force fed to your ass one more time ! the sound is off by 3 seconds too, but who cares ? right ? enjoi right ?

Wolverine LAnd from chad greedy on Vimeo.

WOLVERINE LAND !

Here lies Lincoln Lake from the back ... so you can get a look at , well what we're lookin at ... all these boulders ! AMAZING !!! this has been the canvas of hard climbing & some of the best new boulder problems the states have to offer ... and to think the season is about to be over !!! this picture was take by none other than BoB Horan ! seemingly always one step in front of it all ! WOW ! you can see the road above the cliff , thats where you drop in from ! for a 1500 ft decent ...

Its OUT OUT OUT !!!

Well my first Video is actually out for sale on iclimb.com !!! NOT to be confused with the current video we are all working so hard on , the Island episode #1 , but rather an accumulation of old footage that can no longer just sit around and NOT be seen ... So here it is ! Say what you will but there is more climbing in this lil video than any other video thats ever existed !!! so If your looking for HARD CLIMBS , look no more ! & it's only 10 bucks too ! enjoi !

HARDCLIMBS got GAME !!!

I'm in SPAIN ! & there is only sport climbing to be had, well some good traverses as well but it's hard to get the the boys syked for that ,,, fags ... but I'm here with the usual suspects climbing , as well as filming for the Island vol. two (which is really video number 3) and number zero ain't even out yet ..? so look for that , as well , look for the ISLAND WEB SITE COMING OUT VERY SOON !!! where you will be able to get a hold of some good climbing videos & other visual crazy eye shit ... OK ...

But for now I wanted to share a lil footage of the newby on the block , the GAME .... the lil roof in Bo-Can , Woods just did ... and SUGGESTS the v16 grade ... wow ... here it is first on HARDCLIMBS.BLOGSPOT.COM ! yeah !

ENJOI !

the SUPER PROJECT ...

well well , it seems to be a wintery lil wonder land these days in good ol Boulder ... so some of us go indoors to itch that scratch , but others like to go out in the cold and suffer for some kind of satisfaction ... and that is what Gomez & I have been doing for the last couple of weeks ... We go up to boulder canyon and act like everything is OK and try and climb ... I have been trying Midnight Express with out hope for a few days and we both have been trying to mess with the Super project , to do moves on this piece of stone is some how exhilarating ... it's a whole new world , very hard new world , it is just such a great new perspective on what is to come , and by the way Daniel has done all the moves!

ENJOI !

the supa project of boulder canyon from chad greedy on Vimeo.

Daniel & I will head up the canyon tomorrow to play on this amazing piece of rock ... Im curious to see what He can do after a year of progression ? I will most likely have my video camera and would love to film a video short of this problem getting finished ... maybe just a dream but never the less ...

who who ... who who .... ???

2009 rap up !

this is a lil diddy of my true hommies Gomez & Carddeck doing it in ELDO ...

ENJOI !

ELDO & the Lads from chad greedy on Vimeo.

Well 2009 came and went ... I feel as if I had a good year but was defiantly awed by what went down around the world by my friends ... A few ascents that stick out in my mind are, well, Dave holding it down for him self , with the first ascent of BIG PAW, as well as BIG WORM all between injures and hard times and then adjusting to sport climbing again , consistency pays off even if you don't see it DAVE !!! Another ascent that was pretty pretty nice to see go down was Chris Sharmas JUMBO LOVE , I have been to the cliff and was very inspired to say the least ... Phil Schaal inspired me a ton with his ascent of JADE, as well as everything he did in the park ... " a workin class hero is sum ting to be" then we have NALLE , i was not so impressed for the simple fact that its too simple for him ... HE DID JADE IN THE RAIN !!! and it looked easy ????? mmmmm what else ??? I think lately I have been most impressed with the people closest to me that have to suffer for it here in Boulder , in the bitter cold , in the muck ? I don't even know what we're doing sometimes ... Gomez put up an Arete in Boulder Canyon in the bitterest of days... he did it three times, before he called it good (he fell off the first move, lowered and did it from there, before pulling the rope) He called it Moredread, and rated it 14a ... I was impressed ! Daniel Woods & Paul Robinson came to the shed one day and Flashed or did everything second try , projects included , everyones jaws where on the floor , it was joke! Daniel went on to climb for the next 4 days, in all the gyms in boulder doing the same , flashing everything , including the 14a in Movement ... I think the point has been made !!! & then we have ONDRA ... I guess that name is already burnt in ... a G for life , a G for life ... I watched Dave do the first ascent of CONFESSIONS and all though I can't say anything about the grade , I never thought it would be flashed !!?? ADAM ONDRA is by far the most inspiring climber to me ... well besides CARDDECK and thats to say im bias cuz he's my best friend ! I love you Jon ...

ENJOI 2010 and lets all step it up a notch !!!

BUM LIFE !

Well October 28th saw a huge dump of snow which basically shut Boulder down ... The mall closed early and in a panic Gomez & I headed out to get supplies down at the local whole foods ... On the way we hit up the Library to do a lil skate boarding , undercover ,,, we were greeted in open arms by the locals who like to hang out FULL TIME to say the least ...

hanging with the bums in Boulder ... from chad greedy on Vimeo.

I think it will take a few days to melt & dry so we will enjoi the plethora of climbing gyms Boulder has to offer & I think we want to have a gym comparison next week right here on HARDCLIMBS.BLOGSPOT.COM

STAY TUNED !

Another Brick in the Wall

this is a video of me traveling the world in search of the best blocks with my best friend Brick ,,, doin what we do ! this time its Limited Edition in Brione, CH .

Enjoi

then again up in none other than New York City !!! Ballin in the mix , with the people for the people ...

NEW YORK from chad greedy on Vimeo.

I have been back in Boulder for about a week now and wandered back up to the Park to see what the conditions were like , and I think it's safe to say that's IT that's All !!! I marched around the canyon, to the back and up to Jade and snow covers all !! which made for a lame hike as well the boulders are soaked too ... boo hoo ....

I look forward to a good Eldo season and trips to warmer places ...

Just Out !!!

This is some bran-NEW footage I took in Hueco ... GooD ol G-Unit and Jon Cardwell (my BEST friend) ... tearing it up ... I tried to sell this lil diddy to a number of people and it just didn't make the cut. Check it out and you decide thumbs up or thumbs down? I think the part where Jon ONE turns into the Hulk at the end is priceless my self, but who am I anyway ?

5.10 Hueco Video from chad greedy on Vimeo.

Well Im headed to the Ariel boulders of Mt Evans this weekend for some much needed rest and fun with the hounds & the boys . Needless to say the Colorado alpine season is in full bloom and I hope everyone is enjoying them selves out there... for now, enjoi this lil clip of a now blazing HOT area ... don't you just wish Hueco was in ColoRADo ... I do ..

WERD ...

the NAKED TRUTH ...

This is my good friend Christian Griffith showing how easy the undercling traverse is to him ... I think I have seen BIG CG do this traverse over 2-300 times ... AMAZING ! and this video is simply one of the best ...

enjoi .

KILL KILL KILL ...

a lot has been going on in the high country these days ... before the accident Dave Graham managed to take down another Colorado classic hard project ... the BIG WORM, up at Mt. Evans ... we have the first ascent footage right here for you . as well as Nalle Hukkataival going for it on Jade, in good ol RMNP ...

enjoi .

Dave Graham & Nalle Hukkataival bouldering in the mountains of Colorado... from chad greedy on Vimeo.

the PUCCIO interview...

Well World Cup Climbing came and went yet again this year and a party or two it was... I composed this lil diddy for all to see... I think the intensity by Carol Woods is inspiring. Great Job by everyone who competed... it was truly a joy to watch...

enjoi.

Untitled from chad greedy on Vimeo.

The weekend before the BIG comp. none other than Dave Graham himself walked up to Mt. Evans and took down a long standing project, otherwise know as the BIG WORM... He proposed the BIG V14 grade. Chris Shulte as well as Paul Robinson have made repetitions and P-Rob felt it could be V13. Time will only tell. Noah Bigwood was close to this more than five years ago.

After I returned from the World Cup and sobered up a lil bit, I had the chance to get back up to the old familiar Rocky Mountain National Park. Mostly going up late and doing some of the old problems (there is still a lot of snow). I did have the pleasure of going up to the green 45 the other day and capturing Nalle Hukkatatival making the 4th ascent of JADE !!!!! It was very impressive to say the least. We hiked up only to be rained on... the temperature dropped and the rain stopped... Nalle warmed up slightly on the stand start... It began to start raining again and Nalle dispatched with JADE IN THE RAIN !!! My jaw was on the floor, Nalle is truly stepping it up a notch, and is becoming a major force in the bouldering game... great job AMIGO !!!!

I will post some of Nalles Jade ascent footage on hardclimbs.blogspot.com but am including it in a full length bouldering movie I am currently working on and hope to have out this summer. until then enjoi it out there...

Carddeck...

this is a video of my best friend Jon Cardwell... Jon is one of the most underrated climbers in the world, if he's not takin some shit from the man, some wack sponsor, or US, his friends... He's flying below the radar hookin things up on the stat...

We have a lot of games we play in our lil krew and this is J 1 trying not so hard on Super Gui at Mt. Evans...

First Try with Jon Carwell... from chad greedy on Vimeo.

World Cup is this weekend... up in Vail... and the International KreW is trickling in... We will be having an after party on the golf course there and all are welcome... enjoi & be safe ....

the VIDEO PREVIEW !!!

I have been seeing a lot of new videos lately & have been inspired to make my own... I have a lot of footage from all over the world with some rery great climbers... so I started putting it together ... and this lil video is a look on what is to come... call it what you will, but I call it a collage... enjoi.

the ISLAND... from chad greedy on Vimeo.

I expect to be finished with this lil diddy in about one months time... I will keep you posted, but for those who couldn't see them in that short piece it's five areas, with five boulder problems in each, their the hardest problems in each area as well a lot of first ascents and no problem under 8a... so, like cool

Gomezez NEW lil video camera ...

Well Gomez got a new lil video camera the other day and we thought we would go see what we could film ... so we decided to go up to Mt Evans ... March is a crazy month to go up there I thought ? but it turned out to be a perfect day, sunny, clear blue skies ... Herm & Theo came along and after the hike we found ourselves warming up on Beer-stadt ... the old familiar problem felt relatively easy in the good conditions ... Herm showed us yet another crazy method I had never seen ... we then walked up the hill to the Dali wall ... It was great, Gomez came very close to Ode to the Modern Man & I did Supa Gui ... Gomezes NEW lil rig proved it self as Luke fell down a hill with it in hand ... and the lightness of it is outstanding ... its a standard Samsung DV camcorder AMAZING, run ya about 100 US DOLLARS. so check it out in this here video ... enjoi ...

Boulder has been very fun for the motivated lately before the storm Dave made a quick ascent of Never Say Never, a historic V11 slab in Eldorado Canyon as well he dispatched with Eric DeCarias Black Pearl, 5.13+ slab on the Lower Peanuts Wall & also I watched D-Dub do all the moves on the Supa Project, up on Cob Rock, impressive to say the least ... so it seams GAME ON ... 24 hour party people unite. Lets go climbing !

anytime any place .....

This is a video short I made some time ago .... Its of D-Dub doing Matt Segals route the Beginning of the End, 5.13+ up there on the Hallets block in good ol RMNP .... I would love to solo this route in the right snow conditions, it's a great route and it's in the perfect place to do just this, boulder it out ... i have seen it in prime shape a few years back and am syked to see it this way again sometime soon .... so heres the beta and maybe i'll see you there, bring a shovel !!!!! enjoi ....


Untitled from chad greedy on Vimeo.

I have not taken a good rest from the road in quite some time and am looking forward to some good R&R back in boulder in a few days !!!! where i will also be updating a bit more i hope !!! until then here are a few pics of the crew, and a good crew it is !!! in fact i hear a lot of shit out there and have to say me and my crew are down for what ev anytime any place .... we aint scerd !!!! 

These pics are mostly from our travels in Texas, around Hueco Tanks .... the boulders are Terre de Siene, V14 .... which Jon Carddeck hooked up the other day, and Nalle Hukkataival's Machinist, V13 first ascent, which Jon One made the second ascent that same day ... good job boys !!!!!!









OK OK .... get ready for Jon ONE Carddeck Cardwells birthday bash taking place in Boulder Colorado in the up and coming weeks ...

make out party, BIG time make out party ......

ENJOI

Answers....

this is a clip of my good friend John McEnroe, he's just lookin for answers... same with many of us... answers to problems, boulder problems mostly...


I am in a transient state now, no home, just floating around looking for some answers of my own... and have to say there are some hard questions out there in this lil game called life... but I try and stay positive... even when Mother Nature cast down her evilness... I have been followed by rain, sleet, and snow wherever I seem to roam, and now developed a shoulder injury due to not having the routine I once had... I guess everyone needs a lil time off now and again...
I came to the South to see fo myself... but literally have seen nothing... the weather forbids me... I'm in a state of confusion... and will seek refuge in the barn at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in the great state of Arkansas, in a week or so... I am really interested in seeing this boulder problem the Shield and look forward to this weekend in Chattanooga... let's see if the weather permits...
I have another video here of Mike Feinberg, the best climber in New YOrk... dispatching with Franks Wild Years, V11...
I think this video should be the standard for videos... It's not only great content but the effects are amazing and the quality is good enough... I think Mike stands alone with creativity such as this... I'm pretty sure he made this film by himself... congrats Mike! this is truly the work of an artist, a master and genius...
I'm currently working on some films of my own, because that's all I can do these days... and look forward to posting them very soon... until then enjoi...

I also think the music is actually Mike himself singing in the ol karaoke bar, very nice touch.... don't think I don't remember...

Switzerland....

This is a lil diddy from Ticino, CH
it seems like it's a home away from home for Dave gRahm these days... He knows where it all is and the future is very bright for this one... the video is from Mike Call, i think, I could be wrong, but who knows... things have come a long way, but the climbing still remains the same, good, very good..
Enjoi



Have Fun and be Safe out there...

Happy Halloween!!!!!!

Well this is a short video depicting some of my resent travels.... I started out flying to London, to meet Ty Landamn... We fell on some good luck and met the owner of the Chelsea football team who let us play with his cars for a few days and make some footage... We then drove to france to hang out in Paris for a few days, then finally!!!, met up with some of our friends in Font... We met Antione Vandeputte after work one day. He borrowed some shoes, then disposed of some classics in the still hot summer temps.... I wanted to stay... I love Font... but I knew it was too hot and we must go... so we packed it up at the end of a climbing day and just drove... We drove over to Magic Wood... We met some more friends in a nice lil spot right next to the spa in town..
It was none other than Chris Doyle, and his friend Matt... we climbed for the next few days but it was still a lil hot, and wet ... but the climbing was rery good and we all were syked.....Ty set his focus on, Practice of the Wild, mine was on the Riverbed!!! Some how I pulled it out and did it!!!! I was very satisfied, I walked up the hill and a friend of mine had just done Deep Throat as well as High Spirit... my glory was diluted... and then Ty, like that did Practice of the Wild and my employee of the day statues was destroyed... well I never seem to get there any how,, at least I can capture it all with my lil video camera.... Well It got a lil warm, we took off to Milan for Ty's birthday and came back new but haggard men.... to much of a story and can't tell it here for legal reprimand would follow... It then snowed on us so we moved down canyon to Ticino, and found a nice lil place on a ranch across the street from Cresciano... now we're here and watch out Halloween is coming and so is our party!!!!! So come one come all and lets celebrate the Pagan way together!!!!!!


P.S. Chris Doyle will return for his business, and as always check out Moonclimbing.com for up to the split second sending....

Cheers!

Olson, stepping it up one notch...

This is a rare video I got of none other than Ryan Olson... He's been in Canada training it up with some new tactics.. looks very strong...



Im digging in here in switzerland, land of many languages, in a small lil B&B down the hill from magic wood... Its been raining a lot and spirits were low but the sun comes out and we get syked, very syked, Ty Landman has been making things look easy, as well as some other colorful characters.. I think things will blow up here soon if the weather stays good... I have been trying to film as much as possible, but the climbing is so good and the crew here usually do things in a few gos if they don't flash it... so it makes for a hard filming process... I am getting good though and it keeps it real very real... the night life sucks so i'll be updating a bit more... until then enjoi the short of Olson !!!!




ciao!

and so it Begins...

I took the month of August for myself, to try and rock climb and get strong, as well as morn for my dead cat BIG PAW. I rarely took the camera out and felt like I was due for a change. I was also re-falling in love with the areas around me, the front range... so the clock gets set, as it always does... I made plans with Tyler Landman to travel to Switzerland and film the best bouldering video, like EVER, with some help from the locals... 'all the hardest boulder problems in all the best areas'... is our mantra, as well as 'to step it up one notch'.. but before the trip I had a lot to clean up in my own back yard.. I got by with a few things I was syked on, but nothing substantial that really satisfied me... I had a dream one night that I was doing Nuthin But Sunshine and the nipple hold was a jug and I pulled through.. I woke and was very syked and thought about this problem a lot for the next week.. The next time I was able to try the problem I did't feel very good but was able to do all the moves, which got me syked and next thing I knew I was to the last move from the start... like a punt I stepped off, but knew the problem was not far away.. I had 3 days left in boulder. I made it up to the parking lot for the next two days and was rained out. I put all my chips in for the last day and this video is what happens... I got to the same place 5 times and missed the jug every time. Herm moved the pads over and spotted me one last time before sun set and I failed again.. I walked back to the car in the dark, alone and thought to myself about all the fun times I've had here... I will be back soon enough... and nuthin but sunshine will be the new bush pilot.. laps...




Hardclimbs.com has changed to hardclimbs.blogspot.com due to my incompetence... I am now at large in the city of London, heading to Paris and Fontainebleau on the weekend... look for more to come right here as well on moonclimbing.com

Hope everyone is enjoying a great season and getting er done!!! enjoi!!!

End of an era...

Here is a short video of my friend Jon #1 'Carddeck' Cardwell... He's hookin up good 'ol' Prime Time to Shine, the 5.14b link up of prime evil and shine.. check out his skills gettin over the river... enjoi



I have not updated in a while.., but since back from Europe it seems as if my world in Boulder Colorado has fallen apart and a forced move is in order... I have lived in this lil town for over a decade.. I have had many friends and good times.. the best in my life.. I have made a life around a few people but mostly my home.. 902 Marine, a house on a street, in my hood and mostly a gathering place for many climbers and like minded individuals... The house has been sold, and kicked out we are.. off to other places we go... In some ways I feel that this place has been home to many besides the ones who pay rent, its been the glue that holds many of the climbers in this community together.... Its been an office, a bunk house, the party shack, the speak easy, a training facility, a spiritual vortex, and basically a place to go... thats close to the pub.. I would like to say thank you to all the friends who made this place what it is... and also, I fuckin miss you BIG PAW!!!! (my cat that was slain by a car less than a week ago)
these are some photos that I would like to share with the group... enjoi..

Dave Graham in Switzerland

Me in my room @ 902 Marine

902 and Mark, my brother

Hardclimbs will be moving offices to a couch near you.. then headed back to Europe to capture the best that climbing has to offer.. I have just finished my first full length climbing film, entitled Fontastic, A renaissance of Bleau... Its the hardest climbs of Fountainebleau, including the Island, V15, Kheopes assis, V15, the Gecko assis, V14 and much more... look for it soon.. over and out for now, strength and honor!!!

from Flag to Font...

Well I haven't updated in some time now but I have been travlin around europe... and its hard always looking for the wi-fi... But my trip is coming to an end in the next few days and i will be homeward bound... Here is a lil video of myself and non other than Dave Graham in fountainebleau... I entitled it from Flag to Font because everything for me starts at flagstaff Mt. Im usually up there with good ol C.G. runnin laps on the the best problem in the world the undercling traverse... it keeps me fit as a fiddle for future boulders.....
I've been in the swiss mountain town of Verbier lately, and been commuting to magic wood, to climb with the team Daniel Woods, Chris Webb Parsons, David, Laura, and of course Dave Graham... Its been great, I just filmed Daniel Woods on his new test piece in the darkness cave, he thinks its his hardest and its truly his style so i think its safe to say its at least 8c or V15.... Look for it on MVM soon... also I have tons of footage from font with all the colorful locals and Dave Grahams new one the Island, also look for that on MVM.... But other than that stay tuned for more and look for a full length video coming soon... enjoi...

on the road

I have been cruzing around Arkansas with some friends for some time now... no phones, no internet, just climbing.. and filming.. not much for me, but Big-up... and Dosage 5... Dave Graham has been on fire putting up hard climbs everywhere... It has been very motivating to be a part of.... this is a clip of Dave on the brutal ascent of Ty Landmans Midnight Express, V14. I know it was a war for Dave and he sealed the deal on his last day of course... shortly after this we were out... to better weather and a change of stone. All was going great I climbed another Ty Landman test piece the Anti-Hero, v13 for my hardest climb to date, very syked to say the least.. Days grew long and the weather was getting warmer, rest days were spent shooting an arsenal of guns on the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, and cruzing to wal-mart... we are now stranded here in Fayetteville, with a broken car, Cooper, Dave and myself, shacked up at Brake Stricklandmentons crib... waiting to go but we never can, i believe we are stuck in some sort of other worldly zone... some how some way we will find our way off this island or maybe we are already home living a normal live? Already.... enjoi

The Warmth...

Ah the good ol' days... when the sun beat down and the boulders were perfect.... now it is Hoth, an ice planet... It just dumped in B-town this last weekend so I watched some old footage.. when it was once warm and sunny... I have a ton of Hueco footage from the last year that I will post soon...but one more park piece for goodness sake...Ho ho ho happy holidays... enjoi

Also, lots of projects closer to home have been getting delt with...the installation of Midnight Express, V14 by Tyler Landman is now probably going to get some attention...Ty just came up with the new Train Spotting, V12 as well. It starts on Midnight Express and goes left to the crack...Daniel Woods was in town for a day so we took him up to the new rig...I filmed him doing Midnight Express from a move in but the first move is definately a big part of the problem....

Carlo Traversi has been mastering Cloud Shadow at Flagstaff Mt., by doing the new Epoch, 8B.. I think the project is still out there—the whole Cloud Shadow traverse into the U.C.T. and up Trice..? Boulder's first 9a? Anyone? Classic...

Anyhow there are still undone things lurking, everywhere...boulders just pop out...so get er' done..

Boulder....

It seems time flies away sometimes, and one does not get to up date ones site as much as one should, so sorry, but i have been out filming alot of new things... I have been in Las Vegas filming Ethan Pringle and Dave Graham climbing on rather large sport climbs... To my liking however I have been close to home and finding new things to keep busy on, I just filmed Jamie Emerson on the local A.H.R up on flagstaff, job well done. I have also been up in Boulder Canyon climbing on granite, and think its safe to say a hard one is on the horizion by none other than Typhoon... I pledge to up date more but untill then enjoi this lil diddy...

Keeping Score...

With the season coming to an end soon I only see the truly obsessed players up in Chaos latly. It's hard to get up there early so we become night owls. Alot of people are getting it done though, Jason Pinto did Gang Bang, V8 the other night via head lamp, Jamie is deathly close to the Automator, V13 and Angie Payne has fallen with her hand on the jug of Euro Human, V12 (first female real V12 anyone?) more than enough... Issac Calldiero had a good trip with Secret Splendour, V12 and Nuthin but Sunshine, V13 on his last day...split tips and all... Dave Graham also tied a few things together but got ripped off his last day going to the last crimps on Aslan, V14 just to step off cuz he had no pads ...
I think its safe to say that our own Daniel Woods came away with the king of Chaos crown this year... He did it all, he repeated alot and he set the bar... Ty Landman came in a close second, with quick repeats and a few new editions himself... here is Ty Landman doing Daniel Woods resistance testpiece Aslan, V14.... enjoi...