This is a video short I made some time ago .... Its of D-Dub doing Matt Segals route the Beginning of the End, 5.13+ up there on the Hallets block in good ol RMNP .... I would love to solo this route in the right snow conditions, it's a great route and it's in the perfect place to do just this, boulder it out ... i have seen it in prime shape a few years back and am syked to see it this way again sometime soon .... so heres the beta and maybe i'll see you there, bring a shovel !!!!! enjoi ....
I have not taken a good rest from the road in quite some time and am looking forward to some good R&R back in boulder in a few days !!!! where i will also be updating a bit more i hope !!! until then here are a few pics of the crew, and a good crew it is !!! in fact i hear a lot of shit out there and have to say me and my crew are down for what ev anytime any place .... we aint scerd !!!!
These pics are mostly from our travels in Texas, around Hueco Tanks .... the boulders are Terre de Siene, V14 .... which Jon Carddeck hooked up the other day, and Nalle Hukkataival's Machinist, V13 first ascent, which Jon One made the second ascent that same day ... good job boys !!!!!!
OK OK .... get ready for Jon ONE Carddeck Cardwells birthday bash taking place in Boulder Colorado in the up and coming weeks ...
this is a clip of my good friend John McEnroe, he's just lookin for answers... same with many of us... answers to problems, boulder problems mostly...
I am in a transient state now, no home, just floating around looking for some answers of my own... and have to say there are some hard questions out there in this lil game called life... but I try and stay positive... even when Mother Nature cast down her evilness... I have been followed by rain, sleet, and snow wherever I seem to roam, and now developed a shoulder injury due to not having the routine I once had... I guess everyone needs a lil time off now and again... I came to the South to see fo myself... but literally have seen nothing... the weather forbids me... I'm in a state of confusion... and will seek refuge in the barn at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in the great state of Arkansas, in a week or so... I am really interested in seeing this boulder problem the Shield and look forward to this weekend in Chattanooga... let's see if the weather permits... I have another video here of Mike Feinberg, the best climber in New YOrk... dispatching with Franks Wild Years, V11... I think this video should be the standard for videos... It's not only great content but the effects are amazing and the quality is good enough... I think Mike stands alone with creativity such as this... I'm pretty sure he made this film by himself... congrats Mike! this is truly the work of an artist, a master and genius... I'm currently working on some films of my own, because that's all I can do these days... and look forward to posting them very soon... until then enjoi...
I also think the music is actually Mike himself singing in the ol karaoke bar, very nice touch.... don't think I don't remember...
This is a lil diddy from Ticino, CH it seems like it's a home away from home for Dave gRahm these days... He knows where it all is and the future is very bright for this one... the video is from Mike Call, i think, I could be wrong, but who knows... things have come a long way, but the climbing still remains the same, good, very good.. Enjoi
Well this is a short video depicting some of my resent travels.... I started out flying to London, to meet Ty Landamn... We fell on some good luck and met the owner of the Chelsea football team who let us play with his cars for a few days and make some footage... We then drove to france to hang out in Paris for a few days, then finally!!!, met up with some of our friends in Font... We met Antione Vandeputte after work one day. He borrowed some shoes, then disposed of some classics in the still hot summer temps.... I wanted to stay... I love Font... but I knew it was too hot and we must go... so we packed it up at the end of a climbing day and just drove... We drove over to Magic Wood... We met some more friends in a nice lil spot right next to the spa in town.. It was none other than Chris Doyle, and his friend Matt... we climbed for the next few days but it was still a lil hot, and wet ... but the climbing was rery good and we all were syked.....Ty set his focus on, Practice of the Wild, mine was on the Riverbed!!! Some how I pulled it out and did it!!!! I was very satisfied, I walked up the hill and a friend of mine had just done Deep Throat as well as High Spirit... my glory was diluted... and then Ty, like that did Practice of the Wild and my employee of the day statues was destroyed... well I never seem to get there any how,, at least I can capture it all with my lil video camera.... Well It got a lil warm, we took off to Milan for Ty's birthday and came back new but haggard men.... to much of a story and can't tell it here for legal reprimand would follow... It then snowed on us so we moved down canyon to Ticino, and found a nice lil place on a ranch across the street from Cresciano... now we're here and watch out Halloween is coming and so is our party!!!!! So come one come all and lets celebrate the Pagan way together!!!!!!
P.S. Chris Doyle will return for his business, and as always check out Moonclimbing.com for up to the split second sending....
This is a rare video I got of none other than Ryan Olson... He's been in Canada training it up with some new tactics.. looks very strong...
Im digging in here in switzerland, land of many languages, in a small lil B&B down the hill from magic wood... Its been raining a lot and spirits were low but the sun comes out and we get syked, very syked, Ty Landman has been making things look easy, as well as some other colorful characters.. I think things will blow up here soon if the weather stays good... I have been trying to film as much as possible, but the climbing is so good and the crew here usually do things in a few gos if they don't flash it... so it makes for a hard filming process... I am getting good though and it keeps it real very real... the night life sucks so i'll be updating a bit more... until then enjoi the short of Olson !!!!
I took the month of August for myself, to try and rock climb and get strong, as well as morn for my dead cat BIG PAW. I rarely took the camera out and felt like I was due for a change. I was also re-falling in love with the areas around me, the front range... so the clock gets set, as it always does... I made plans with Tyler Landman to travel to Switzerland and film the best bouldering video, like EVER, with some help from the locals... 'all the hardest boulder problems in all the best areas'... is our mantra, as well as 'to step it up one notch'.. but before the trip I had a lot to clean up in my own back yard.. I got by with a few things I was syked on, but nothing substantial that really satisfied me... I had a dream one night that I was doing Nuthin But Sunshine and the nipple hold was a jug and I pulled through.. I woke and was very syked and thought about this problem a lot for the next week.. The next time I was able to try the problem I did't feel very good but was able to do all the moves, which got me syked and next thing I knew I was to the last move from the start... like a punt I stepped off, but knew the problem was not far away.. I had 3 days left in boulder. I made it up to the parking lot for the next two days and was rained out. I put all my chips in for the last day and this video is what happens... I got to the same place 5 times and missed the jug every time. Herm moved the pads over and spotted me one last time before sun set and I failed again.. I walked back to the car in the dark, alone and thought to myself about all the fun times I've had here... I will be back soon enough... and nuthin but sunshine will be the new bush pilot.. laps...
Hardclimbs.com has changed to hardclimbs.blogspot.com due to my incompetence... I am now at large in the city of London, heading to Paris and Fontainebleau on the weekend... look for more to come right here as well on moonclimbing.com
Hope everyone is enjoying a great season and getting er done!!! enjoi!!!
Here is a short video of my friend Jon #1 'Carddeck' Cardwell... He's hookin up good 'ol' Prime Time to Shine, the 5.14b link up of prime evil and shine.. check out his skills gettin over the river... enjoi
I have not updated in a while.., but since back from Europe it seems as if my world in Boulder Colorado has fallen apart and a forced move is in order... I have lived in this lil town for over a decade.. I have had many friends and good times.. the best in my life.. I have made a life around a few people but mostly my home.. 902 Marine, a house on a street, in my hood and mostly a gathering place for many climbers and like minded individuals... The house has been sold, and kicked out we are.. off to other places we go... In some ways I feel that this place has been home to many besides the ones who pay rent, its been the glue that holds many of the climbers in this community together.... Its been an office, a bunk house, the party shack, the speak easy, a training facility, a spiritual vortex, and basically a place to go... thats close to the pub.. I would like to say thank you to all the friends who made this place what it is... and also, I fuckin miss you BIG PAW!!!! (my cat that was slain by a car less than a week ago) these are some photos that I would like to share with the group... enjoi.. Dave Graham in Switzerland Me in my room @ 902 Marine 902 and Mark, my brother Hardclimbs will be moving offices to a couch near you.. then headed back to Europe to capture the best that climbing has to offer.. I have just finished my first full length climbing film, entitled Fontastic, A renaissance of Bleau... Its the hardest climbs of Fountainebleau, including the Island, V15, Kheopes assis, V15, the Gecko assis, V14 and much more... look for it soon.. over and out for now, strength and honor!!!
Well I haven't updated in some time now but I have been travlin around europe... and its hard always looking for the wi-fi... But my trip is coming to an end in the next few days and i will be homeward bound... Here is a lil video of myself and non other than Dave Graham in fountainebleau... I entitled it from Flag to Font because everything for me starts at flagstaff Mt. Im usually up there with good ol C.G. runnin laps on the the best problem in the world the undercling traverse... it keeps me fit as a fiddle for future boulders..... I've been in the swiss mountain town of Verbier lately, and been commuting to magic wood, to climb with the team Daniel Woods, Chris Webb Parsons, David, Laura, and of course Dave Graham... Its been great, I just filmed Daniel Woods on his new test piece in the darkness cave, he thinks its his hardest and its truly his style so i think its safe to say its at least 8c or V15.... Look for it on MVM soon... also I have tons of footage from font with all the colorful locals and Dave Grahams new one the Island, also look for that on MVM.... But other than that stay tuned for more and look for a full length video coming soon... enjoi...
I have been cruzing around Arkansas with some friends for some time now... no phones, no internet, just climbing.. and filming.. not much for me, but Big-up... and Dosage 5... Dave Graham has been on fire putting up hard climbs everywhere... It has been very motivating to be a part of.... this is a clip of Dave on the brutal ascent of Ty Landmans Midnight Express, V14. I know it was a war for Dave and he sealed the deal on his last day of course... shortly after this we were out... to better weather and a change of stone. All was going great I climbed another Ty Landman test piece the Anti-Hero, v13 for my hardest climb to date, very syked to say the least.. Days grew long and the weather was getting warmer, rest days were spent shooting an arsenal of guns on the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, and cruzing to wal-mart... we are now stranded here in Fayetteville, with a broken car, Cooper, Dave and myself, shacked up at Brake Stricklandmentons crib... waiting to go but we never can, i believe we are stuck in some sort of other worldly zone... some how some way we will find our way off this island or maybe we are already home living a normal live? Already.... enjoi
Ah the good ol' days... when the sun beat down and the boulders were perfect.... now it is Hoth, an ice planet... It just dumped in B-town this last weekend so I watched some old footage.. when it was once warm and sunny... I have a ton of Hueco footage from the last year that I will post soon...but one more park piece for goodness sake...Ho ho ho happy holidays... enjoi
Also, lots of projects closer to home have been getting delt with...the installation of Midnight Express, V14 by Tyler Landman is now probably going to get some attention...Ty just came up with the new Train Spotting, V12 as well. It starts on Midnight Express and goes left to the crack...Daniel Woods was in town for a day so we took him up to the new rig...I filmed him doing Midnight Express from a move in but the first move is definately a big part of the problem....
Carlo Traversi has been mastering Cloud Shadow at Flagstaff Mt., by doing the new Epoch, 8B.. I think the project is still out there—the whole Cloud Shadow traverse into the U.C.T. and up Trice..? Boulder's first 9a? Anyone? Classic...
Anyhow there are still undone things lurking, everywhere...boulders just pop out...so get er' done..
It seems time flies away sometimes, and one does not get to up date ones site as much as one should, so sorry, but i have been out filming alot of new things... I have been in Las Vegas filming Ethan Pringle and Dave Graham climbing on rather large sport climbs... To my liking however I have been close to home and finding new things to keep busy on, I just filmed Jamie Emerson on the local A.H.R up on flagstaff, job well done. I have also been up in Boulder Canyon climbing on granite, and think its safe to say a hard one is on the horizion by none other than Typhoon... I pledge to up date more but untill then enjoi this lil diddy...
With the season coming to an end soon I only see the truly obsessed players up in Chaos latly. It's hard to get up there early so we become night owls. Alot of people are getting it done though, Jason Pinto did Gang Bang, V8 the other night via head lamp, Jamie is deathly close to the Automator, V13 and Angie Payne has fallen with her hand on the jug of Euro Human, V12 (first female real V12 anyone?) more than enough... Issac Calldiero had a good trip with Secret Splendour, V12 and Nuthin but Sunshine, V13 on his last day...split tips and all... Dave Graham also tied a few things together but got ripped off his last day going to the last crimps on Aslan, V14 just to step off cuz he had no pads ... I think its safe to say that our own Daniel Woods came away with the king of Chaos crown this year... He did it all, he repeated alot and he set the bar... Ty Landman came in a close second, with quick repeats and a few new editions himself... here is Ty Landman doing Daniel Woods resistance testpiece Aslan, V14.... enjoi...
It never ceases to amaze me at the talent and the caliber of veteran climbers.. Dave Graham is back, and thinks he's not in shape..? He has been dispensing with V12 boulder problems in almost every session. He did Mental Masturbation, V12 at Mt. Evans his first day, Secret Splendour, V12 in the park, as well as Wild Cat, V12. And in a late day nabbed the 3rd ascent of Harrys new one at Moraine Park, Both Sides of the Spectrum, V12 classic... Ty Landman has not let up after doing Jade, he battled and won against Aslan, V14, for the 3rd ascent, and did Both sides of the Spectrum right before Tony Lamiche, for the 4th and 5th ascents... I cant wait to see what will happen next as the season ends and the temps get good? please enjoy the footage and stay tuned for more to come..
note, Tony Lamiche also made the 5th ascent of Ode to the Modern Man, V14 the other day.. quick..
Everything is going well, the fall is in the air and the temps are getting good... We have always talked about international people comming to the park or Evans to prove them selves on our own test pieces.. well non other than Tony Lamiche showed up the other day and quickly put down two v12s in a day, (a real day)... I think he looks fit and will have a great time here in the states maybe we have a few block that will take him longer to do, maybe not? we'll see... good job Tony...
Everything is getting sent, things are getting repeats... all is well in Chaos Canyon, there are however a few amazingly hard things left to do.. its cool to see your home town area become a five star mecca for hard bouldering, almost over night, in fact most of the good sends happen at night... The days get shorter but the temps are getting amazing... the holds that used to feel shit are becoming jugs, everything changes in the fall.. the next two months are the best times for sure.. look for some new footage on momentumvm, and moon climbing.
Well well, I have not updated in a lil while and I'm sorry but times they are a changin... The park is not what it used to be. With the growth of boulderers in the area comes some bad apples and they often spoil the whole bunch or at least ruin the taste.. It seems the punter climbing community has tried to police the park and is taking pads down to the trash.. so we have to work harder and do things a lil more dangerous to get the job done... But what a job has been done. TY LANDMAN HAS MADE THE SECOND ASCENT OF JADE, V15... another majestic night it was and this time I capured it on HD quality film.. we warmed up on the usual, the Skippers and the El Jorges, Jackie Chiddo did the right El Jorge, V9, good form... then we headed up the hill to the green 45 wall and met up with Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson. They both had done the third and fourth ascents of the Wild Cat, hard V12, nice one boys.. The sun set and the temps got good. Jeff Landman flashed suicide season, V8 very high, and I tried a sit or squat start to Rev de Wills, V7, a very good project... Ty got syked on Jade and gave it a few tries. He was doing good but it was dark. He pronounced he would give it one more try and like that was hanging from the jug and made it look easy. A day to remember for all.... nice one Ty.... the footage will be out soon on Momentumvm, moonclimbing or last case on my web site Hardclimbs...
For now though enjoi Jackie's ascent of the right El Jorge plus Nick and Gomez tearing it up......
Typhoon has done it again last friday was it was Friday the 13th, v10... this friday it was Next Friday, v11/12? What will next week have in store??? Seth Allred was there to make a quick second of the new rig... check it out...
The Park has been muggy, rainy and damp for the last week or so. The temps get good when the sun sets so it makes for long days, getting back to b-town usually about 11 or 12. But Nick Sherman seized the day last Tuesday when he did a long standing project simply called Wildcat... Unfortunately I wasn't there to film but got some footage of him the next day... He did Skipper roof-v12, and Riddles in the Park, a harder v12... enjoi the footage and the excellent photo by the fantastic Caroline Treadway...
Everyday the routine seems to get easier and easier of going to the park. It feels good and all the snow has not yet melted.. the season is early and the bugs are out but that doesn't stop the few, the brave.. so many new projects sprouting up everywhere... enjoi.. and never stop exploring...
Here we have some footage of my dear friends, Angie Payne and Jamie Emerson.. Angie had done the third ascent of the Hydra Twist a few days before this and was trying to repeat it; a very in vogue display these days. And Jamie was hookin' up the Dead Raccoon for his first time.. good job by both... enjoi...
chew on dis.. did you know that the Gang Bang arete has been campused, ascended in the sneaks (see Herman in 'Try Hard') and now done with a crash pad on.. (see Jamie on B3 bouldering.com).. very impressive?...
I just got back from good ol RMNP, and boy it was nice the wind was kickin the temps are good and plenty of good friends to climb with... employee of the day went to Ty Landman again... he warmed up.. and almost did Jade, v15 from a move in.. then went down and made quick work of Golden Rose of Flows, v11, then flashed his brothers new problem The Aristocrats, v9... good job o'l boy... whats next... mmmmm i wonder? Here we have another great photo by Caroline Treadway, this time its Seth Allred on the classic Skipper D, v8... enjoi
Well, I've been away for a week now, so I sent the Salt Lake City troops up to the Park to give it some welly. This is a classic boulder problem first ascended by Adam Osterhoff entitled Barbwire Beard, V11. This is none other than Captain Bub himself, Isaac Caldiero, making a quick ascent and Jacinda Hunter gunning for the first female ascent. These fantastic photos are by Caroline Treadway-enjoi...
P.S. HD quality footage coming soon plus top pro interviews...
Going to the park everyday one forgets about other areas sometimes... Check out the boys doing the Dali wall, well most of it anyhow... If anyone wants good quality videos of the Dali Wall and/or the Centaur block in the park, drop me a line in the comments and dont forget your e-mail address... they will be out soon... enjoi....
P.S. someone has been throwing pads away in the park so check the trash and save your ass.....
Well i have seen alot of shit go down, like Dave Graham's time in the park, or Chris Sharma, Tom Caldwell, Dave and Malc Smith trying the automator, with Jerry Moffat telling them how it's done... But nowadays Daniel Woods is using the park for some kind of outdoor gym or circuit trainning. He can do lower chaos first go most of the time. Its very mind blowing to say the least. The other day he did the green 45 project, now jade, i was asked not to film.. the next day Daniel got up early to film the skyscraper, here is Daniel 3rd day on in lower chaos W.T.F.....? I hope everyone is having fun this year in the heat... send hard, and so much for excuses...
P.S. snow is melting fast, game faces on...
P.S.S. i have much more footage to come... and two videos already done..
P.S.S.S i am that chad who sk8ed in L.S.L way back in the day, cina canada... hi...
Daniel Woods did it last night in one surreal moment, stars out, lit by head lamp, a lantern and a spot light...crushed the green 45 project... it was truly amazing... I was chilling in the dark with a rolled cigarette, watching daniel go for his last try (of course) and he climbed right up that shit... for real. it was like being at the fair or some thing soo good, Good Job D Dub.. see it in a dose from big up...
boulder canyon can be a good bouldering spot, there is a circut so to say... you can start on the top of the canyon (castle rock, hard boiled) or on the bottem, and just work your way up or down.. All the Harder problems: Graham aretes, v11, v9, cage free, v11, and hard boiled, v11, done in a day is a great effort. I guess throw in the barrio travers, 5.13, and freak brothers, v11 and you'll be the king of the canyon? One day Dave Graham did the Graham aretes, and soloed the start of Mr. Stiffy 8b, into gyro captain which = v9 high ball? onsight too.. The Landman boys have cage free on lock down and did that and freak brothers in a day. Ty did the F.A. of freak brothers via flash.. All that and one of the most amazing projects on the planet, the 'visor' at cob rock.. oh oh the other project at castle rock in the woods... sick? enjoi the footage of cage free one of the classic problems in boulder canyon....
Today is rainning, and there is nothing to do except play on the computer, Here are some projects i've come across in my travels in good o'l RMNP, these are three out of i'd say ten blocks in the park that have new lines on them that WILL go.. truely amazing.... the future is now... attack...
on another note, I will have two videos comming out soon, one, The Dali Wall. & two, The Gang Bang bloc. Yes the whole bloc. for you for cheap...
yesterday was a slow but good day in o'l RMNP, 5th day on can be a bitch some times.. for me it was clear.. i was failing, but for ty landman the sky is the limit. We got up to the park at around 4:20 or so, and warmed up on veritas.. Ty installed a new one on that block, called bulging out, v9? then did all the moves on the travers into veritas, starting on the arete, maybe v13??? We then went up to lone star aka stink bug.. it was hot, I think Ty wanted to flash it but temps sucked so we brushed up this old project to the right, (Jamie had done a stand to this at around v9?, back in the day).. as the sun sank ty dialed in the moves and after a few fine tunes he was on top with a new first ascent under his belt, The Power of Ten, V13... a ten move bloc, just to the right of lone star... good job.. making the most of the cool temps, ty went on to flash Lone Star to finish the day off. It seems as if the blanks are being filled in at RMNP, and Mt. Evens.. just last week i had the pleasure to look at a few new things at both areas, at around the 8c or v15 range, i took some footage too... so stay tuned for a look at the plethera of projects in your own backyard.... get some....
this is footage of the ledgendary city walls of dying dreams established by cameron cross as a stand start around v10. jason kehl attempted the sit down start, an instant classic for a long season, but the project fell to adam osterhoff, and goes around v12. Almost put up by johhny G, his fall resulted in a leg break that is shown here. this highball testpiece stands unrepeated to this day....... enjoi...
note. jeff landman made a 2nd day ascent of Freshly Squeezed yesterday to start his season off right. good job ol' boy.
everything is drying out in the park, and things are getting done faster then you can dig them out.. mostly repeats but still good efforts.. D-dub i think repeated the automator, v13 the other day and freshly saw some action maybe a down rating? W.T.F ??? by ethan... Jeffy landman has repeated the gobot, v11 three times or so... and the gobot has seen many retro flashes but never a true flash... whos up for the challange ??.. Ty did the centaur, v12 on the quick... as well as the gobot.. the other day... The new things are a lil snow dependent like the two new ones on the 50 50 block, cookies corner v7 and seths stand start? v8, very cool pre season lines... a lil out at the moment... but the shallow water thing exists.... get some.... Green Wall any one??....
